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Arlene Wright-Correll |
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Arlene Wright-Correll |
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How
to Have a Tuscan Vacation without Leaving Home© By
Arlene Correll |
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and
remember them all with fondness. I
love to paint these memories and I love to cook the food of that region. |
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early
March. The weather is just
sweater or light jacket weather at that time of year. Traditional
Italian meals are broken into four courses: antipasto, primo, secondo
and dolce. Most classic ristoranti will expect you to order at least
antipasto and secondo or primo and secondo courses. Italians tend to eat
later than Americans, so restaurants usually fill up around 9 pm.
We particularly liked eating in the mid afternoon.
The restaurants were less crowded. However, you must make sure
you are not too late, because many close for a “siesta” time for
themselves. We
quickly discovered that the tip is usually included in the coperto, or
"bread and service" charge, later divided among the restaurant
staff. Do
not think that all you will get in these restaurants is pasta.
Pasta is often eaten during the primo, or "soup and pasta
course." Since it precedes the secondo, or main course, portion
sizes are much smaller than in the US. |
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For
the freshest ingredients from the Italian countryside, there's no place
like Tuscany. This section of central Italy has a little of everything in
the landscape, from rolling hill towns cradling olive groves to
grain-filled plains. The simple, pure cuisine relies on what's best from
the land--spring fava beans, wild ramps and fragrant sage and rosemary. Today, most things in a Tuscan Pantry can be purchased right in your neighborhood store. |
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In
our little village some of the things cannot be, so when we go to a
larger town, we stock up and freeze what we can and other things that
can go into our pantry, do. These
basic ingredients can lead you right into simple Tuscan cooking.
I have listed the main ingredients one would find in a Tuscan
kitchen. |
| Anchovies: [AN-choh-vee; an-CHOH-vee] Though there are many species of small, silvery fish that are known in their country of origin as "anchovies," the true anchovy comes only from the Mediterranean and southern European coastlines. These tiny fish are generally filleted, salt-cured and canned in oil; they're sold flat and rolled. Canned anchovies can be stored at room temperature for at least a year. Once opened, they can be refrigerated for at least 2 months if covered with oil and sealed airtight. To alleviate saltiness in anchovies, soak them in cool water for about 30 minutes, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Because they're so salty, anchovies are used sparingly to flavor or garnish sauces and other |
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| preparations. One can get anchovy paste. Anchovies may well be an acquired taste. However, a small amount in recipes is delightful. |
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Chestnuts: Mount Olympus, home of the gods, was said to have had an abundance of chestnut trees producing this sweet, edible nut. There are many varieties of chestnuts and the trees are common throughout Europe, Asia and the United States. Once peeled of their hard, dark brown outer shells and bitter inner skin, chestnuts can be enjoyed in a variety of ways including roasted, boiled, pureed, preserved and candied. They |
| can be used in desserts or as a savory main-dish accompaniment. Fresh chestnuts, most of which are imported, are available from September through February. Choose firm, plump nuts without shell blemishes. Store unshelled nuts in a cool, dry place; refrigerate shelled nuts in a covered container. Chestnuts can also be found canned whole, in pieces or as a puree. They can be unsweetened, or sweetened as in marrons glacés. Dried chestnuts, as well as chestnut flour (dried nuts that have been ground to a powder), are often found in ethnic markets. |
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Olive Oil: Pressing tree-ripened olives extracts a flavorful, monounsaturated oil that is prized throughout the world both for cooking (particularly in Mediterranean countries) and for salads. Today's marketplace provides a wide selection of domestic olive oil (most of which comes from California) and imported oils from France, Greece, Italy and Spain. The flavor, color and fragrance of olive oils can vary dramatically depending on distinctions such as growing region and the crop's condition. All olive oils are graded in accordance with the degree of acidity they contain. The best are cold-pressed, a chemical-free process that involves only pressure, which produces a natural level of low acidity. Extra virgin olive oil, the cold-pressed result of the first pressing of the olives, is only 1 percent acid. It's considered the finest and fruitiest of the olive oils and is therefore also the most expensive. Extra virgin olive oil can range from a crystalline champagne color to greenish-golden to bright green. In general, the deeper the color, the more intense the olive flavor. After extra virgin, olive |
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oils are classified in order of ascending acidity.
Virgin olive oil is also a first-press oil, with a slightly higher level
of acidity of between 1 and 3 percent. Fino olive oil is a blend of
extra virgin and virgin oils (fino is Italian for "fine").
Products labeled simply olive oil (once called pure olive oil) contain a
combination of refined olive oil and virgin or extra virgin oil. The new
light olive oil contains the same amount of beneficial monounsaturated
fat as regular olive oil...and it also has exactly the same number of
calories. What the term "light" refers to is that--because of
an extremely fine filtration process--this olive oil is lighter in both
color and fragrance, and has little of the classic olive-oil flavor.
It's this rather nondescript flavor that makes "light" olive
oil perfect for baking and cooking where regular olive oil's obvious
essence might be undesirable. The filtration process for this
light-style oil also gives it a higher smoke point than regular olive
oil. Light olive oils can therefore be used for high-heat frying,
whereas regular olive oil is better suited for low- to medium-heat
cooking, as well as for many uncooked foods such as salad dressings and
marinades. The International Olive Oil Institute recommends using pure
olive oil for frying, since the flavor of extra virgin olive oil tends
to break down at frying temperatures, making the added expense a waste.
Olive oil should be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. It
can be refrigerated, in which case it will last up to a year. Chilled
olive oil becomes cloudy and too thick to pour. However, it will clear
and become liquid again when brought to room temperature. Some of the most beautiful, old olive trees I ever saw were on one of the small Balearic Island in a town called Valldemossa. The trees were 100 or more years old. |
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Parmesan Cheese: [PAHR-muh-zahn] This hard, dry cheese is made from skimmed or partially skimmed cow's milk. It has a hard, pale-golden rind and a straw-colored interior with a rich, sharp flavor. There are Parmesan cheeses made in Argentina, Australia and the United States, but none compares with Italy's preeminent Parmigiano-Reggiano, with its granular texture that melts in the mouth. Whereas the U.S. renditions are aged 14 months, Parmigiano-Reggianos are more often aged 2 years. Those labeled stravecchio have been aged 3 years, while stravecchiones are 4 years old. |
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Their complex flavor and extremely granular texture are a result of the long aging. The words Parmigiano-Reggiano stenciled on the rind mean that the cheese was produced in the areas of Bologna, Mantua, Modena or Parma (from which the name of this cheese originated). Parmesans are primarily used for grating and in Italy are termed grana, meaning "grain" and referring to their granular textures. Pregrated Parmesan is available but doesn't compare with freshly grated. Both domestic and imported Parmesans are available in specialty cheese stores, Italian markets and many supermarkets. |
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Prosciutto: proh-SHOO-toh] The Italian word for "ham," prosciutto is a term broadly used to describe a ham that has been seasoned, salt-cured (but not smoked) and air-dried. The meat is pressed, which produces a firm, dense texture. Italy's Parma ham is the true prosciutto, although others are also now made in the United States. Italian prosciuttos are designated prosciutto cotto, which is cooked, and prosciutto crudo, which is raw (though, because of its curing, ready to eat). This type of Italian ham is also labeled according to its city or region of origin, for example prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele. Prosciutto is available in gourmet and Italian markets and |
| some supermarkets. It's usually sold in transparently thin slices. Prosciutto is best eaten as is and is a classic first course when served with melon or figs. It can also be added at the last minute to cooked foods such as pastas or vegetables. Prolonged cooking will toughen it. |
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Sage: [SAYJ] This native Mediterranean herb has been enjoyed for centuries for both its culinary and medicinal uses. The name comes from a derivative of the Latin salvus, meaning "safe," a reference to the herb's believed healing powers. The narrow, oval, gray-green leaves of this pungent herb are slightly bitter and have a musty mint taste and aroma. There's also a variety called pineapple sage, which has an intensely sweet pineapple scent. Small bunches of fresh sage are available |
| year-round in many supermarkets. Choose sage by its fresh color and aroma. Refrigerate wrapped in a paper towel and sealed in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. Dried sage comes whole, rubbed (crumbled) and ground. It should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. Sage is commonly used in dishes containing pork, cheese and beans, and in poultry and game stuffing. Sausage makers also frequently use it to flavor their products. |
| Basil: [BAY-zihl; BA-zihl] Called the "royal herb" by ancient Greeks, this annual is a member of the mint family. Fresh basil has a pungent flavor that some describe as a cross between licorice and cloves. It's a key herb in Mediterranean cooking, essential to the delicious Italian pesto, and is becoming more and more popular in American cuisine. Most varieties of basil have green leaves, but one-- |
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| opal basil--is a beautiful purple color. Lemon basil and cinnamon basil have green leaves but their perfumed fragrance and flavor matches their respective names. Basil is a summer herb but can be grown successfully inside during the winter in a sunny window. It's plentiful during summer months and available year-round in many markets. Choose evenly colored leaves with no sign of wilting. Refrigerate basil, wrapped in barely damp paper towels and then in a plastic bag, for up to 4 days. Or store a bunch of basil, stems down, in a glass of water with a plastic bag over the leaves. Refrigerate in this manner for up to a week, changing the water every 2 days. To preserve fresh basil, wash and dry the leaves and place layers of leaves, then coarse salt, in a container that can be tightly sealed. Alternatively, finely chop the cleaned basil and combine it with a small amount of olive oil. Freeze in tiny portions to flavor sauces, salad dressings, etc. Dried basil, though it bears little resemblance in either flavor or aroma to the fresh herb, can be purchased in the spice section of most supermarkets. Store dried basil airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. |
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Fava Beans: [FAH-vuh] This tan, rather flat bean resembles a very large lima bean. It comes in a large pod that, unless very young, is inedible. Fava beans can be purchased dried, cooked in cans and, infrequently, fresh. If you find fresh fava beans, choose those with pods that aren't bulging with beans, which indicate age. Fava beans have a very tough skin, which should be removed by blanching before cooking. They're very popular in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes, can be cooked in |
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a variety of ways and are often used in soups. Sometimes they are called faba bean, broad bean and horse bean. |
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Pancetta: [pan-CHEH-tuh] An Italian bacon that is cured with salt and spices but not smoked. It's used in Italian cooking to flavor sauces, pasta dishes, forcemeats, vegetables and meats. Flavorful, slightly salty pancetta comes in a sausage-like roll. Pancetta can be tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 weeks, or frozen up to 6 months. |
| Polenta:
[poh-LEHN-tah] A staple of northern Italy, polenta is a mush made
from cornmeal. It can be eaten hot with a little butter or cooled until
firm, cut into squares and fried. For added flavor, polenta is sometimes
mixed with cheese such as parmesan or gorgonzola. It can be served as a
first course or side dish and makes hearty breakfast fare.
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| United States. Early on, this mint-family member was
used to cure ailments of the nervous system. Rosemary's silver-green,
needle-shaped leaves are highly aromatic and their flavor hints of both
lemon and pine. This herb is available in whole-leaf form (fresh and
dried) as well as powdered. Rosemary essence is used both to flavor food
and to scent cosmetics. Rosemary can be used as a seasoning in a variety
of dishes including fruit salads, soups, vegetables, meat (particularly
lamb), fish and egg dishes, stuffing and dressings. |
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Salami: [suh-LAH-mee] The name applied to a family of sausages similar to cervelats. Both styles are uncooked but safe to eat without heating because they've been preserved by curing. Salamis, however, tend to be more boldly seasoned (particularly with garlic), coarser, drier and, unlike cervelats, rarely smoked. Salamis are usually air-dried and vary in size, shape, seasoning and curing process. Though they're usually made from a mixture of beef and pork, the kosher versions are strictly beef. Among the best-known Italian salamis are Genoa (rich, fatty and studded with white peppercorns) and cotto (studded with black |
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peppercorns). The nonpork kosher salamis are
cooked and semi soft. Italian-American favorites include Alesandri and
Alpino. frizzes and pepperoni are also salami-type sausages. With the
casing uncut, whole dry salamis will keep for several years. Once cut,
they should be tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to two weeks.
Salami is best served at room temperature and can be eaten as a snack or
as part of an antipasto platter, or chopped and used in dishes such as
soups and salads. Here is a
typical Tuscan Meal: And just
remember, “Sbagliando s'impara”
or as we say in English, “Practice makes perfect” Caramelized
Chestnuts (This recipe takes about
50 minutes of prep. Time, 17 mins. To cook and serves 8) 1 pound jar vacuum-packed
whole chestnuts (not canned) or 1 pound roasted chestnuts (method below) Preheat oven to 325
degrees F. If using vacuum-packed chestnuts arrange them in a shallow baking pan in one layer and bake in upper third of oven 6 to 8 minutes, or until hot and outsides are dry. If roasting chestnuts roast as per method below. In
a large bowl, sift together the confectioners' sugar and salt. Add hot
chestnuts to sugar mixture, tossing gently to coat, and put a rack over
baking pan. minutes,
or until brown and crisp. With a slotted spoon transfer chestnuts as
fried to rack. Return oil to 350 degrees F between batches and carefully
skim caramelized sugar from surface of oil as necessary. Chestnuts
are best served immediately but may be made 1 hour ahead and kept,
uncovered, at room temperature. Tuscan Bean Soup Au Gratin (La Ribollita) (I found this recipe one time on Food TV on the Emeril show) The preparation time is 15 minutes and the cooking time is 3 hrs. and 15 mins. It serves 8. |
| 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 3/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 cups minced onions 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 cup finely chopped leeks, white part only 1 hot chile pepper, stemmed and minced 2 medium ham hocks, about 3 to 4 ounces each 1 pound white beans, soaked overnight and drained |
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2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. |
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In a gallon stock pot, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the garlic, onions, carrots, celery, leeks, and pepper. Sauté for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the ham hocks and sauté for 1 minute. Add the beans, rosemary, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves. Stir in the chicken stock and bring up to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 2 hours or until the beans are tender. Remove the ham hocks, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves. Using a hand held-blender, puree half of the bean mixture. Pick the meat from the ham hock and return the meat to the bean mixture. Season the beans with salt and pepper. In a sauté pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the crushed garlic cloves and chopped thyme and simmer for 1 minute to infuse the oil. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the garlic cloves. Stir half of the olive oil mixture into the bean mixture. Line a fireproof tureen with the toasted bread slices. Sprinkle the bread with half of the cheese. Ladle the bean mixture over the toasted bread. Cover the bean mixture with the onion slices, the remaining infused olive oil and cheese. Place the tureen in the oven and cook for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve. Garnish with chopped parsley. Tuscan
Chicken This is a quick and good recipe that takes about 5 minutes to prepare and about 20 minutes to cook and it serves 10. I enjoy watching Rachel Ray and her 30 minute meals. This one is a good, Tuscan recipe. |
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pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1 1/2 pounds chicken breast tenderloins Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons butter 2 shallots, chopped 6 sprigs fresh rosemary, finely chopped |
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| 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups beef broth (yes, beef broth) Heat a large, deep
skillet over medium high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Add
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, half the chicken pieces, and a
couple of crushed cloves of garlic. Brown chicken 2 minutes on each side and remove from pan. Add remaining oil, another single turn of the pan, remaining chicken pieces and garlic. Brown chicken 2 minutes on each side and remove. Add vinegar to the pan. Let it cook off.
Add butter, shallots, and rosemary to the pan
and cook 2 minutes, add flour and cook 1 minute more. Whisk in wine,
reduce 1 minute. Whisk in broth and bring liquids up to a bubble. Return
chicken to the pan and simmer over moderate heat 7 to 8 minutes to
finish cooking chicken through. |
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Panzanella
Italian Bread Salad 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, smashed to a paste 2 teaspoons grated lemon rind 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil |
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5
ripe plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped Spread
the bread cubes out on a baking sheet and leave out, uncovered, to dry
for 24 hours. Alternatively, bake the cubes in a 300 degree F. oven for
10 to 20 minutes until dried out but not toasted. In a large bowl whisk together the shallots, garlic, lemon rind and balsamic vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Add the olive oil in a stream, whisking constantly until well combined. Add the tomatoes, bell peppers, fennel and olives, tossing to combine. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Thirty minutes before serving the salad add the reserved fennel greens, basil and bread cubes, tossing to coat, and let the salad stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Serves 8 Tuscan Cream
Puffs (I found this recipe a couple of years ago in Pino Luongo’s book, “Simply Tuscan” and it serves 6.) 3 whole eggs plus 6 egg yolks In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks with the granulated sugar until smooth using an eggbeater or an electric mixer. Add 1 cup of the flour and the milk, butter, and lemon zest and mix well. Put the mixture in a saucepan and warm it over low heat until it becomes as thick as mashed potatoes. Spread the mixture out onto a buttered cookie sheet with a spatula and let it cool for at least 30 minutes. When it has set, cut the sheet into 1 1/2 by 2-inch diamond shapes with a sharp knife greased with vegetable oil. In a mixing bowl, beat the whole eggs. Dip the
diamond shapes first in the remaining flour, then in the eggs, then into
the bread crumbs. Fill a pan 3 inches deep with vegetable oil. Heat the
oil over medium-high heat. When it is 375 degrees F. (a drop of water
will sizzle and splatter), slide the diamonds in and fry them until they
are golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and
let them drain on paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with confectioners'
sugar and serve. Of course, don’t forget a little Chianti or dry
white wine. End you meal with an espresso or a cappuccino or
forget the Tuscan Cream Puffs and just have some fruit and cheese. Make
your meal a long leisurely one and share it with family, friends and
neighbors. This is a good
entertainment meal. Why not
have a “Tuscany Evening?” “Mangiare per vivere e non vivere per mangiare”
or as we say in English, “Eat to live and not live to eat”.
So enjoy and live well, live simply and you will live a large and
full life. The paintings in this article are done by Arlene Correll and these and many others can be seen and purchased by going to http://www.learn-america.com/stories/storyReader$158
About
the author, Arlene
Wright-Correll (1935-
), free lance writer, award winning artist and avid gardener is
mother of 5 and the grandmother of 8.
For almost 40 years she was an International real estate
consultant and during the last 20 years of her career traveled to many
parts of the world. She
has been a cancer and stroke survivor since 1992.
While working and raising her children she had many hobbies
including being a very serious home-vintner for approximately 14 years
while residing in upstate New York in St. Lawrence County producing
2,000 to 3,000 bottles of wine a year.
She was the president of the St. Lawrence County chapter of the
American Wine Society in
"Tread the Earth Lightly" & in the meantime
may your day be filled with... Peace, Light, and Love, Arlene Wright-Correll www.learn-america.com ©Copyright,
www.learn-america.com all rights reserved. |
